More Than Design

Episode 7: The Next Chapter of Streetwear Brands

December 26, 2023 Big Wells Season 1 Episode 7

In this episode, the hosts discuss their holiday activities and share their thoughts on a variety of fashion topics. They take a deep dive into the brands listed in Complex's Top Streetwear Brands of 2003, offering their insights and critiques. The brands discussed include Supreme, Amy Leon Dool, Palace, Joe Fresh Goods, A.Wake, Stussy, Fear of God, and Jound. In their assessment, they consider the impacts of collaborations, brand hype, and sales tactics. This episode also features a discussion on the value of pieces, importance of cash flow for brands, and the implications of fashion brand investments.

00:00 Introduction and Thanksgiving Recap

01:26 Discussion on Streetwear Brands and Complex List

02:21 Deep Dive into Supreme's Performance

03:32 Impact of Reselling on Streetwear Brands

08:36 Exploring Other Top Streetwear Brands

13:54 Fashion Consumption and Spending Habits

16:03 Review of Joe Fresh Goods and Cactus Plant Flea Market

19:38 Final Thoughts on Awake Brand

21:02 Discussing Favorite Stores and Celebrity Influence

21:41 Controversy Surrounding Rude's Founder

24:18 The Importance of Investment for Brand Growth

26:59 The Impact of Counterfeit Products on Brands

29:07 The Evolution of Supreme and its Influence

33:51 The Rise of Corteiz and Denim Tears

36:03 The Controversy and Success of Fear of God

40:42 Wrapping Up and Looking Forward

 Yo, welcome to more than a design episode seven day after Thanksgiving. Got the bro Chris here happy, happy turkey day.  What's up, man? 

What's up, man? I'm doing good. How you been? 

I'm good, man. Good, good, good time yesterday with the family or the missus and the kid.

Yeah, yeah, 

I wasn't there. I spent Thanksgiving on my lonely, you know. That's  It was pretty good, you know, because the last couple weeks I've been spending a lot of time with the family, so it was good to recoup

and uh You cooked? Recoup. 

No, did you cook? 

Nah. Hell no. I don't know how to cook.  got some, uh, red Lobster on, red lobsters, some cheddar biscuits on Thanksgiving.

Biscuits was nice. And, uh, you know, watched the game, you know, it was good. It was good. 

Yeah. No, I didn't even watch the game, but yeah. Yeah. Mrs. Cook for the first time on Thanksgiving, she made the lasagna. Well, no, I made the lasagna. Okay. Okay. Uh, she made the chicken. We had, uh, I don't eat chicken, but we had some chicken.

Yeah, we had, uh, you know, some, some broccoli, some mac and cheese. Some, uh, candy yams had the marshmallows toasted and shit on there. We have some salmon. 

You got to include 

the salmon. We had to have some salmon.  It was really good, you know, so festive.

Yeah. We'll, we'll, we'll be doing Thanksgiving at my crib, you know, next, next year. This was like a test run. To see if me and her could do it and we did it. It was bussing. Successful. It was bussing, it was bussing.  



So for this episode, I honestly I just wanted to I feel like, well, this is Black Friday, but by the time this episode airs, it'll be like the end of December, probably the beginning of January, depending on what we got. But, uh, this will be like a 2003 recap of just some of the top brands and I wanted to really go off a complex list.

So I took the list and what we're going to do is just really dissect it, like really, you know, see if it's hidden, see if it's hit and based off what they were saying, uh, based off some of the collaborations or. Uh, achievements of the brand. Yeah. The list isn't that bad, but it's real commercial shit.

No complex. Oh, man, come on man. Complex 

is cool. Salute the, salute the complex. Salute the complex. You know what I'm saying? 

We, we definitely need a boothing complex con. So no, I'm not shit on complex at all. Not, not at all. Uh, yeah, but we, we definitely do some work with y'all, but the list.  It's cool. It's cool.

It's cool. Let's take a look at it. Top streetwear brands of 2003 so far. Supreme, number one,  you know, go figure. I don't even know if this is in order by, by list, but Supreme.

I mean, it's definitely probably in terms of 

most important. Yeah, cactus plant, some of their collabs this year, cactus plant, collaboration with undercover and a collaboration with Coogee. I mean, of course, Stone Island, they had the bounty hunter, uh, collab, which was fire. That, that, that was a fire collab, but you know, Supreme really fucking shines and, uh, their, their fall winter with a lot of the North Face.

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Their winter pieces are typically hidden. accessories.  Um, the cactus plant drink. I don't think that was hitting for me. Um, but I mean, they, 

they, they, they're popular brand. And plus they do have some really good collaborations.  Yeah. Yeah. That's probably why it's there. Same thing with Supreme and, you know, Supreme in terms of sales, it's probably still number one.

So that's probably what speaking of sales. So that's why I want to have some really good pieces to like, 

you know, they've had some pieces. The difference now with supreme, I feel like is when you go on there, their website, you can actually freaking buy pieces. I mean, yeah, 

yeah. The reselling, the reselling 

is definitely that's what I want to actually about.

 So VF Corporation. You know, they acquired supreme for 2. 1 billion.  And, um, of course the reactions have been a little bit miss, uh, mixy. Um, you know, and is reselling dead and has it, has this hurt supreme?  I think the reselling, I've seen this on Reddit by reselling, someone said, I mean, in its original format, sellers go to thrift, the bins and estate sales and, uh, resell as a profit.

Of course, there are many variants. If you live in New York or L. A. where they recycle product like newspaper, then you'll have a, you'll have an easier go, but it's, the market is much saturated. Uh, can resellers make enough to live nowadays? Is pricing a race to the bottom now that it's so harder to make a profit? 

Yeah, I mean And I feel like that was Supreme's biggest Like a few years when the, when reselling was so big because you couldn't get any of the drops. So the resale value of a lot of stuff, you go on StockX, you go on GOAT, fucking, you know, a 200  sweater now is going for like 600 to 800. Yeah, 

but I think that has, I mean, I don't know the manufacturing of Supreme, but that might have something to do with the way they manufacture their clothes, the level of stock they have, you know. 

Maybe back then, they had lower stock, so maybe it sold out quicker. I don't know, but like Like, you know, the hype is dead across the board, like, it's not what it used to be. I think for a lot of reasons. I think now, one, one reason that's not spoken about is the fakes and the replicas and how like 

Nasty work. 

Nasty fucking work. Salute the replicas. Salute the replicas.  Nasty work. But like, replicas are like everywhere now. And these days, if you want a pair of like, I don't know, like off whites, for example. You can get like a pair of all face that look identical to the real thing. Yeah, and the community's grown So I think it's like millions now within that community.

It's grown so large now that like there's no need to pay retail price For something you can get the identical of yeah, and now they replicate 

everything everything So the resale value, I mean now resellers now are fighting against  The fakes. They're fighting against the 

fakes. And it's even, you know, I remember a couple years ago when Kanye said, when he was working with Adidas, he said he wants his stuff mass produced.

Yeah. You know, and it's like, even today, you can get Yeezys for retail price no matter where you go. Yeah. And so I think companies,  companies are really the ones who controlled the resale market by how much stock they put out there.  And how they control their products now, I feel like a lot of companies are sort of mass producing a lot of what they have.

So it's like, yeah, research it is. And then you got the fast fashion shit too. 

Yeah, fast fashion mixed with a lot of copies, a lot of the stuff, even though it's not the original. And I think Supreme with even with remain leaving hasn't had the best publicity. This year, just based off of that, I think so.

But I think also them being acquired, it's being ran differently. So of course, like.  There's more expectations right like now now instead of it being like real cool laid back at the office We're running a company. We have some corporate motherfuckers in here But now it's kind of really like dictated based off of numbers goals I think 

when corporate takes over it's like they want the most profit.

Yeah, that's produced So it's like they have a completely different business models and I'm sure the cool factor Yes, the previous owner of supreme did you might have wanted that cool factor and things that nature now, it's like  We want straight money. They 

want straight money. I think they're making it.

Yeah. No, they're still making it but they are  Falling short of some of their goals, but fucking their goals compared to most streetwear brands are like, yeah I think like 

last year they made what six seven hundred million Something to that. It's crazy. Yeah. So it's like, 

and they fucking crying about them being short of like hitting their targets.

It's like, yeah,  supreme definitely still on this list. I don't think that they're dead. I do think that, uh, it's just a different dynamic for Supreme and, not everything's going to hit like how it used to, but that's the point. Like, yeah.  You're gonna have your ups and downs, but but really not every not every collection supposed to hit I think right you got you got a few pieces here and there that definitely I think people definitely are Sought after than than others, but I'm 

people still want the nor face collabs people still, you know I'm sure 

it's fire the Stone Island ones be dope too Um, but my favorite collab Um, shout out to that.

So if y'all could send me some of that, that'd be fire. Send us some of that, man. Yeah, send us something, man. We, we struggling podcasters here. Facts.  Next we got the Amy  Leon 

Dool. Good 

pronunciation. I think that's how the fuck you say it. I was searching on YouTube all day, so some of their standout moments reopening its renovated flagship, uh, in New York in growing, um, you know, had some collabs with with New Balance and Porsche, uh, Porsche.

Um, I like this brand and  their pieces do hit more or less their look books. Yeah,  I don't know if it's like a sought after street wear brand. That's the thing though. Yeah, I don't know. Who the fuck is wearing like, who do you think they're? Target audiences or demographic that they're trying to reach because I don't think it's like  us in the, you know, industries, but it got that preppy type of J crew, like expensive J crew, you know, Kashmir.

Crew neck sweaters for  550 double breasted wool top coat for 1, 600. Sheesh. God damn, I'm sweating thinking about that. Uh, that, those are expensive, you know, but I think their sneakers is really what's been Their sneakers are good. Their New Balance collabs have really been what's, to me, in the streets, what's like, okay, like, you got those.

Like, over the past few years, they've been doing their thing with New Balance. 

I like the color palettes that they use, too, for their sneakers. Yeah. I don't know, you know, I think,  I don't want to say like you said before, it's a shitty list, but I think maybe this is, this, I mean, this brand does have a lot of steam to it.

Yeah. There's some popularity around it, even though it might not be super popular in the streets. Yeah. Uh, there's still a lot of corporate interest and there's still some celebrities that are involved. So yeah, yeah, I gotta give 

it to him. It feels like and then with their flagship store too. It feels like they they are somewhat a staple in New York City.

But I think for maybe their demographic, it might be like some,  you know, um, fucking college kids around the city. Maybe, maybe, maybe a little older, maybe a little older. But yeah, I wonder because I've never like any. I don't see anyone be like, Oh yeah, I got this shit. Yeah. Hey, 

you know, it could be one of those brands that's that has, you might not,  people not might not necessarily be talking about them, but people definitely have the pieces and maybe they just incorporate their pieces differently in terms of what they wear.

So it might not have the big splash name, but people still 

wear it. The resale value for it, I felt like isn't as high either. I was just on Grout.  I always used to search for, for this brand on ground and I  never really saw a lot of like pieces on there. I was like, Oh, I can't afford 550 crew neck sweaters, but maybe the resale value.

Yeah. I'm like,  who the fuck is buying this? But you know, shout out to y'all. Definitely get Teddy Saints. Uh, founder on here talk a little bit more, but the, the aesthetic is super dope though. Not the can't take that away. No, there's a super 

dope brand for sure. 

Yeah. I just super. Just expensive brand and I don't know who's necessarily wearing it right now.

But, uh, next is Palace Palace Palace Palace. They got the, uh, Evie's old collab. They had their new balance, uh, collab. The collab with McDonald's this year. Um, they've been doing it up like Palace is my I put that over Supreme right now. I definitely do love Palace. Could we sit here and say Palace might be the best? 

Skateboard brand.  For sure. Top, top three. 

Top three. You can all time at this all time for sure. You can put, you can put it number two for you. Yeah. If you, if you're comfortable, yeah. 

Why, why palace hits hard? Like why, why are they fucking lit?  I mean, I feel like it's, it's, there's not a lot of flaws in a lot of their like. 

Drops, like maybe the collabs, some of the collabs are like, you know, what I don't have the 

supreme level collabs. 

Yeah, yeah, the collabs, some of the collabs be okay. But I like the one with the Vizu and um, Averex. So, you know, they have some, some pieces on there that was dope. Averex Collab was dope. Yeah, yeah, yeah.

The leather, the leather jackets was dope. 

Yeah. Palace just makes good quality stuff and it just really, it never, the quality never drops off. You never look at their collections like, oh shit, it's corny. Yeah. It should is outdated. It's just like they 

know who they are like they don't try anything Yeah, 

when you go on their website, and they had the little funny Sayings when you look at products and stuff 

like that, it's like their product descriptions of Larry's.

Um, they, they use the same, you know, models majority of the time for a lot of their shoots and the feel of the shoots and the look books are great. Um, they know they stay in their pocket. A lot of those Gore Tex coats.  I bought my first fucking palace jacket camo. We'll put that in here so y'all can see it.

But I was fucking hype. I wear that bitch every day, especially for like four or something. I'm wearing that shit every day. Got to every day. Get your money's worth. Yeah, I gotta get my money's worth, man. I don't know about y'all people, man, but when I buy clothes now, I'm thinking to myself how many wears I'm gonna get out of it because You got to justify spending some of the money that you do spend if you ain't getting no fakes or nothing.

You got to really justify spending like 400 

spending a car payment or something. Yeah, 

yeah, yeah, yeah. Some of y'all living bad out here. Just buying, buying clothes. Shame on y'all, man. I salute to y'all, man. Shame on y'all, man. Some of y'all can't afford some of the stuff y'all buying and y'all using Klarna or like fucking.

Every two week payments and y'all think that y'all getting a deal? Nah, man. Shame on y'all, man. It's 

New York City. You gotta be fly out here in these streets, man. Yeah, shame on y'all. Y'all eating me. It's nasty. It don't matter if you live in a studio apartment. If you got ten roommates. If you outside and you fly.

This is a PSA. If you outside and you fly. That's all that matters, man. You know what I'm saying? If you look good, you feel good.  

Y'all niggas ain't Deion Sanders, cause y'all don't, that's a Deion Sanders saying. If you look good, you play good. Exactly. Y'all ain't playing good. Look at Deion 

Sanders, Hall of Famer, best corner 

ever.

Yeah, no one got, they don't got Deion Sanders money.  Well, yeah.  Some of y'all gotta scale back a little bit, man. Some of y'all need to be on Fashion Nova or Boohoo, 

you know? I mean, Fashion Nova is pretty dope.  I mean, no, that's, that's 

pretty Maybe for the women. I don't know about guys. Fashion over men.

Fashion over men is okay.  It's okay. Mm-Hmm. , they got, they got cheap stuff. 

They got, I, I don't know. They got cheap stuff. I 

mean, you could get you some like parachute pants or  some cargo pants, something like that. You could get something like that on fashion. Okay. Okay. I could see that. I mean, yeah, $30.

Yeah. 

Yeah. Okay. Okay. That's not bad. I mean. 

Yeah, yeah, yeah, you 

know, I ain't no one judging. I feel like at this point in time, like no one judges you what you wear. As long as you're not looking like like Bummy. No, 

no, no one even knows the brands half 

the time. Half the time. There's so many new brands out here.

Next they got a joe fresh goods  Yeah, um, he had a new balance collaboration Uh, he had his own personal collection as well And then they put shedding light on history of van's capsule collection And using his platform to get back to the Chicago community. 

Okay. I mean,  I think new bat, the new balance collabs are definitely a lot of brands have new bells. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. I think the new balance collabs is really where maybe he makes this list just being as far as just like relevance. I don't know if like. The actual clothing of Joe Fresh Goods is, is necessarily strong enough to put him on this list, but, um, I love how he does a lot of storytelling about Chicago through his clothes.

Um, I know he recently closed, uh,  I think he had his own, like, - , Brick and mortar space out there in Chicago, but um,  yeah, what's your thoughts on Joe? I like some 

of Joe fresh goods Um, I like some of the pieces Everybody's got a new balance collab, but his new balance collab 

was dope. Yeah, we need a freaking new balance collab Maybe why don't we get a little bit bigger?

We could definitely new balance or a six for sure a six a six 

a six is nice Asics has had some good collabs over the years with a lot of brands. 

Well, we'll get on that because they had a, they had a good collab with, uh, Awake too. So, I'll get on that. Joe Fresh, I think I would, I would, I would bump Joe Fresh out. 

I might put Carhartt here. Carhartt, 

Carhartt. Or I would 

put, uh,  Or they don't have cactus plant flea market here either. They don't? No, they didn't have them on this list.  Complex. Yeah, I think I would,

I think Joe would be runner up. I might replace Joe Fresh Goods with uh,  Carhartt. Carhartt's been pretty solid, man.

They have 

some really nice stuff, like their pants, jackets.  Yeah, they 

just have some really stuff. And they have really good collabs too. Yeah. They've been doing good with their collabs, so I, I would just based off relevance

, but the, but this new balance has been hitting, I, I like the ones  last year. 2022.

Yeah. Than the ones that he had this year. And, um, we'll, we'll put those up. But yeah, shout out, shout out to you Joe. Cactus plant, I mean, transitioning 'em, even though they haven't been on the list. Um, at first I thought their clothes were like, uh, like I didn't know how long they would stand the testament of time.

Um, because I first started seeing them with Pharrell, but then that's how everybody 

seen them with Pharrell. 

Yeah, then they recently had like their Nike collab, which is which has been dope. Um, the Nike 

collab is what really put them, put them on, put them on. Right. Cause I had a couple of those long sleeve shirts that a couple of the pants too.

They had a lot of stuff. So cactus plant is, I 

like them because their hype isn't just still like based off of like celebrity influences. It's still like, Oh, like they have some real unique pieces of unique pieces and design. Like real, when we talk about like graphic design, like I felt like cactus, yeah, they definitely put.

They stand out amongst all the other things. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. And a lot of imitators, as far as like a lot of those TikTok brands and shit like that, I feel like they try to copy  Cactus a little bit, especially with like the puffy print um, and shit like that. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, 

yeah. 

Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. I'm thinking about it. Yeah. A lot of rest. A 

lot of brands do copy, copy that type of like aesthetic. So it's like, okay, but, but no one yet has been able to kind of like master it. And of course with the collabs is definitely been, they even have freaking collab with McDonald's, 

So next we got a wake  They open up their first brick and mortar in New York City  They had the collab with a six and they had a collaboration with a car heart But uh, I like a wake man shout out shout out to awake I think their pieces are very it feels like New York like their look books feel like New York Yeah, their pieces are Their aesthetic is just like appealing as well.

Like everything about awake So far that I've seen, you know, even with from the leather jackets from the hoodies the cardigans It just feels like on brand with like East Coast like and I 

like that for sure for sure. That's what's good about it I mean to me that's the aesthetic of the brand and that's what's connecting me to it It's just how it look, you know gives you that New York feel Yeah, especially when they just had the the  release of the leather jackets.

They look, you know, the Averick style jackets So yeah, they're dope. They belong on 

the list. Yeah, yeah, I'm about to  I'm swiping that credit card today on Black Friday. Shout out to Awakeboy.  I'm swiping that card. Nah, I definitely do like them.  They're founder. He used to work for Supreme.

I seen him on the Throwing Fits podcast talking a little bit about that. so he definitely, they have The background and the foundation and the, you know, resources too. So I think that's a great thing. I haven't been to their store yet. So definitely, uh, got a, got a head out there. Yeah.

Got to hit them up, but they, they definitely belong on this list. The, the purple ASICs that they did, the gel NYC ones. Those was fire with the, uh, gothic grape

I've been seeing Drake wear this. They got pictures of Drake wearing this stuff. That's why they're on the list. Yeah, maybe Rihanna's. Then they did Rihanna's custom Super Bowl, uh, flight suit. Yeah. And then they did some stuff for Beyonce's Renaissance tour I don't know if we're, we're. 

If the streets is looking for this 

You know, if you got celebrities wearing your stuff, then.  

Then you can make it on this list. 

Yeah, you can make it on any list these days. 

Yeah, could, question here, could Gallery Department or Rude maybe take this spot for?

For 

sure, for sure, Rude is still at the top, Gallery Department. They've had some big years, they're still going strong. Shout 

out to both of those guys. So, but to pivot to Rude, Rugee, uh, their founder, he's been on the news a few months back on, uh You know, still in the company funds to support his lavish lifestyle.

Um, and he was selling supposedly, supposedly selling allegedly, yeah. Uh, selling, uh, pieces to his VP clients, uh, behind, you know, direct, direct to them and keeping the funds. And, uh, I follow that motherfucker on, uh, Instagram, that man lives in a private jet. He lives a pretty lavish life. I didn't think about it.

And when you do look at some of the other founders and they don't have to post what they do, but you know, Ruge's watch collection, the private jets, the yachts. the cars.  I'm like, man, rude is doing their thing. But then I see this article. I'm like, Ah,  getting sued for about 30 mil. Um, has that do you think that's gonna hinder the brand at all?

Or is or you think like if you was in his shoes, you gotta do what you gotta do  as far as just keeping up with the lifestyle being with J. Z. Kevin Hart. All of these, you know, being in those, those circles. 

Yeah. I mean, in the lawsuit, it alleges that he stole money from his business partner. Yeah.  So I don't think I can be still money for my business partners.

Um, But in terms of like him living a lavish lifestyle, it's on brand, especially with the pieces that he's making. Sort of incorporating that lavish lifestyle.  It's on brand. You gotta be with Jay Z, with the celebrities, and you selling to them particularly, you know, and promoting them too. Yeah. So yeah, it's on brand, you know, you got to be in the, but if you spend your own cash on the PJs, if you're in that position, yo Jay Z, let me get on the PJ with 

you, you 

know what I'm saying, let me borrow your watch, you know what I'm saying, you know, you don't want to be stealing, even if, you know, I'm sure I think I've read  some of the details in the lawsuit, him and his business partner were estranged.

Yeah. Yeah. After a few years of, he invested about 50, 000. into the business. And, uh, that could be another topic, a full topic of just like brands taking invest investments, um, to scale and grow. And, and is that good for brands? Like you, you lose that creative control, but then you'll see a lot more brands that are on top now, kind of looking like.

You know, just brand owners that are trying to grow their brand, you know, it's, it's hard, you know, without that initial capital. Yeah. Without the 

investment. Yeah. It's hard to scale. Like, you know, last time I came, I talked about me and my boy with the brand and it's just like, we need an investment.

Honestly. If somebody came to us and said, yo, I got a hundred K, give me 30,  40 percent of ownership. It's like, that's a real conversation, you know, just to get things. Up, uh, up and started because it's just so difficult out here with your own money to start a brand unless you're, you know, going to Alibaba or, 

you know, even, even that, like, even that, yeah, you still gotta, you still gotta grow and scale and, and, and it takes money.

People don't realize that it doesn't matter what, like what industry you're in, whether it's fashion, it doesn't matter what industry that, that capital, uh, the name of the game is cashflow. You need cashflow. Uh, to continue to stay in business. That's where most businesses fails. Not not only because they don't have the customers or, uh, there weren't first to the market or anything.

It's like that cash flow dries up. It's over. Yeah, because  most 

businesses you got to think it's like you don't necessarily get the customers immediately. You might go to years in the red. Yeah. So it's like you got to be able to weather that storm kind of weather. And that's the capital is just like, and on 

the phone.

And the funny thing is once that lawsuit stuff came out,  he was still splurging.  He was like, yo, I don't care  

because I got to keep my name. 

Oh, he was still, I still follow him. I'm like, oh, he, he don't care. And I, I respect it. You know, I think rude is still a sought after brand. Um, it still has the hype.

The celebrities are still messing with it. So yeah, shout out to shout out to Rugee and Rude. You guys definitely should be on this list, uh, gallery department gallery department was falling into a weird Space where I thought it was going to fall in or it kind of did but maybe maybe not but um Like denim tears where okay, and it's something weird when it comes to like I guess like black brands Where it's like if it's overworn, it's like, you know, this brand ain't hot no more and it's like that's any that's any brand You don't think it has to do with  Because I don't see this with like any other brand.

It feels like for the past few years it was V Lone. Oh, V Lone is overworn too much. Uh, now it's, it was Gallery Department. And then it was, now it's like Denim Tears. But it's like,  As a brand owner, like you want your stuff to be worn, like, don't you? But as you spoke about with like fakes, the fakes kind of do ruin, especially with gallery department, galley department, fakes is nasty.

Nasty work. Yeah. You go out to Houston, boy,  you go to a party in Houston, but even kids in high 

schools got the, yeah, they know about they own it. Uh, it could 

be that he just opened up a store to and, um, it could be that 2022. If I'm 

not mistaken, Miami even tell far to, you know, we didn't talk about him, but even tell far his bags are like  super popular the last couple of years.

And that was like  kind of, you know, cool and all, 

but the thing is, all of these brand owners are,  no, 

it's  

not a conspiracy, but when you look at it, like from a Chanel. Uh, Prada, anything, there's a bunch of fakes there and it doesn't, Louis Vuitton, yo, you go down to Canal Street, the same fucking Mills and, and mothers coming from Florida and Ohio and all over, they do their tours and they go down to Canal 

Street and 20 bags, 

20 bags.

It's still not like the value of Louis Vuitton hasn't stopped and the same and they buy the same freaking replica bags. 

I get what you're saying in that regard. I, I just think, yeah, it's a tough situation because like Louis Vuitton is a, it's a household name. It's a fashion house that existed for like a hundred years.

Yeah. So I guess a lot of those European brands sort of have that.  Longevity yeah, and they've been 

around and they're not relying on one piece. I guess yeah, they're lying on an entire But that's the thing gallery department and denim tears. They have more than I guess 

the thing though Right is like, of course, they have the period of hype just like supreme Yeah But now supreme is outside of that period of hype and now you're looking at the collections and you're looking at pieces And you're judging them not because of 

the hype, but because now you're judging them just straight off pieces, which I do like, because I felt like during the hype period of supreme, it was too much hype and everybody's like, uh, like just cop everything, cop everything, resell everything, got to go up by about 30, 40%.

And I'm just like, what, what's going on? Like I couldn't. And that, that was a beautiful time in hindsight, right? In hindsight, because not because it was, it was, it was annoying as fuck. Yeah. Yeah. Cause you couldn't cop anything like it made no sense that you got to wake up. Oh, the release is at 12 p. m.

Eastern and by 1201, 1202, everything is sold out. And then you have the time of the bots. Then you have time of like people waiting 

online. Online was, I mean, there was a lot of crazy. You waited online. Hell no, I ain't waiting on line.  But it was like a party waiting on line. I remember back in the day, they used to have the, uh, the baby guy.

He used to come, you know, the, the, the bathing date warrior. Yo, shout out to him. If you watching this, come over here for an interview, man. No, I think he locked up, yo. Oh, he did? Yeah, he 

locked up.  

Well, when you get out, get on the couch, you know what I'm 

saying? Talk about your experience. Shout out, shout out to you.

Yo, he had, he had Soho in a choke 

hold, bro. Until you got, until you got touched.  I touched a few times. I wouldn't say 

all that, man. Nah, nah, nah. I guess he did get in a few fights. I think he got locked up a few times.  But yeah, yeah, yeah. People were definitely scared of that guy.  He was 

picking on kids, though.

Picking 

on kids. I think when he did have the artication with the grown man, then it 

got He ran up on Seth Rogen. 

Yeah. That was weird. Yeah. Don't do that, bro. We love you, bro. We want you. We don't want you in. I don't know why he's in jail, but yeah, we, we don't, we, we want you to. You're a loving soul, man. We don't want you out here hurting people and shit, scaring people for views, man.

But that time is 

Yeah, that time is over. People are still doing 

shit like that, but Yeah, that's corny. That's corny. Don't do that. Don't do that. Shout out to him. But yeah, he was, he was rocking with Bape Hart. And uh That was a 

crazy time. Yeah, those were 

crazy times, man. Good, good times. Good times. Yeah. Um, so yeah, we'll, yeah, low, low E.

I don't know about that. We might get you get you to F out of here. Then you got  Jound. J J J J Jound? Yeah. I like them. They're on the list. And what do they have? Um, New Balance Collabs, Reebok Collaboration. Then they've also did some stuff with Levi's.  But um, here's their first paragraph that Complex describes them.

It says, Jound isn't a brand. You go to when you are looking for a design that is pushing the envelope or taking strides into new territory. For some people, that's enough to write it  off as a boring or a label lacking creativity. But what the Montreal imprint has been able to do consistently is create staple prices.

Uh, uh, staple pieces at the highest level of quality should not be overlooked. I do think that they have had some of the best New Balance collaborations. Um, over the past, maybe I would say two years, their pieces are pretty clean. As they said that there's nothing like really super aesthetically like groundbreaking what they do.

Um, you can go to Uniqlo and find some of the same pieces. I think overall, um, especially when it just comes to just like stables, 

they're good brand, but you know what? I gotta, I might have to get them out of here 

too. Yeah. You gotta get them 

out. I'm gonna put in this brand. I mean, does it get talked about enough?

I'm gonna put in who decides war. This brand, he's been out for years. They've been working. Putting in work. Working with Virgil. Just putting out fire. It's the murder, right? Murder. Murder bravado. Yeah. 

Yo.  Yeah, you and wifey. gotta pull up, man. Dream team.  

He's just putting out just crazy pieces. I mean, the level of detail, the 

embroidery, just, you know, the dip set pieces and then the rough rider, uh, this year, the who decides, uh, fire fire. 

And then the, uh, The, the, the leather coat that Jim Jones wore at the, uh, I would, I would kill for that.  

I would 

kill somebody for that.  It is a beautiful jacket. It's beautiful. It's a work of art. Nah, that, that, that's something that you spend money. That, that is when, when Rocky said, we don't wear clothes, we wear pieces.

That's a piece right there. You can put that in the museum. That's a piece right there. Nah. Yeah. Yeah, we got to get them out of there. We'll, we'll, we'll replace them with who decides. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. We got to put who decides wars in here. Uh, next on the list, we got Corteiz uh, some of their standout moments this year, the air maxes that they were able to drop.

Um, and they did like a little pop up here in New York too, at the, somewhere in Harlem. Um, but yeah, they're their brand. That branch has been growing, been blowing up. Um, I think we've talked about them before. I got, I got the guy's name wrong. I, I said, Kurt, his name's Clint. Shout out to you, Clint. Um,  uh, but yeah, that, that brand has been dope, man.

And I think, um, overall they have gotten the youth involved. Like they, they have a lot of like, Meetups out there in the UK. Yeah, we're like kids are like traded in there like North Face winter coats  Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, and and trading them in for their coats, which is crazy But they got the youth in a chokehold, bro.

Yeah. Yeah. I mean their pieces are definitely you can even see that the UK influences 

Yeah, yeah with the tracksuits 

Yeah, cool. I mean That's I didn't know about that the uh, what they did with the north faces. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah 

Yeah, they have that or they'll do shit where they're giving away free clothes and their owner Clint is like Running around through like they actually it's called Soho to out there in the UK running around Soho like kids are chasing after him just to get like free shirts.

Um, they, he got the hype. He got, he got the celebrity influence too. He got skeptic. He got Drake, Drake shouted him out in a freestyle too. Um, I think that's what you really need. I feel like the hype will be over with this brand, but I think the owner is so consistent and passionate about. The brand that you still have a consistent.

Yeah, they're gonna have that consistency. And he just did a photo shoot to for, uh,  Supreme. They used him as a  Their model to for I think it was maybe their fall collection. Um, but yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Shout out. Shout out to Courtney. I think they stay on this list that this is for sure. For sure. They're becoming a staple.

Yeah, they're becoming a staple. Um, them new balances were fire. Them green shirts was yeah. Nice work. Uh, next we got fear of God. Uh, they put his standout moments is having his first. fashion show at the Hollywood Bowl and teasing this Adidas collaboration. 

I seen them. I say, I mean, I seen the pictures of the Adidas collab, man. 

You got to go back to Nike, man.  

I don't know about it. I don't 

got much to say. Yeah. I don't know about fear of God anymore. I mean,  I mean, essentials has been really, you know.  This is bread and butter. This is bread and butter right there. I don't, I don't, I don't think you can do no wrong with essentials right now, but as far as fear of God,  yeah, fear of God is, I don't know if they can make that list right now. I mean, for this year, yeah, 

um, fear of God is cool.  

I love Jerry Lorenzo. I love what they do. Um, I just don't think that they've done enough this year, honestly, to be on this list as far as one of the, I would put Stussy. Oh, Stussy's on the list. Oh, it's on the list. Yeah, he is. You can't have this list without having Stussy Stussy's next.

I mean, we could just jump. Yeah. Fear of Guy. I would probably get you guys outta here to be honest with you. Um, but, but Stussy, Stussy's.  

Fire. Fire. Yeah. Fire. 



 And they, to me, they, they still get the recognition, but they're just, they've never been in that like top number one discussion.

But there's sort of like palace where it's just like, you know, everything they drop is just right fire, the right quality, the right price points. Everything is just right. 

Yeah. Good price points. Good, good collabs. Yeah. Good look books.  Like they go at their own. They're like Luka Dantridge. They go at their own pace.

It's like, you, you know what you, you're going to get a 30. 15 and 10 and 10 with, with Stussy. Like every time. Good job. , like, you know, they do really good work, man. Yeah. I, I don't think they, they've missed as well. I'm gonna check you guys out too on Black Friday.  Fuck. I didn't even look on the site yet.

Nah, I don't even know if they got anything on sale. I gotta see though. Yeah. This list in any specific order? The order? No. There, there's not like 1, 2, 3. It's just a list. Um, they, they dropped this list in June.  Of this year. I'm sure it's been updated, but I thought it was good to just take a look at next.

We got denim tears, denim tears for sure. I think, uh,  I wouldn't, I don't know if they would have made this list if Tremaine still was at supreme, but I think since he was like F them and went back to denim tears, I think a lot of his energy is focused on there and I think he just realized like, all right, cool.

Like, you know, he made his, uh,  We'll say it's allegations, uh, because you know, his, you got his truth, you got  corporate's truth and then you got the truth somewhere in the middle. 

The story is, is that he wanted more black representation at the company, uh, and I think they might have promised him when he first got hired and after a while they said, fuck you.

Yeah. We don't give a fuck. You gotta work.  Work. Which is like, I mean, that, that is.  If you come to a company with a pledge, and after a while of being there, they sort of renege on that,  then it is, it might be time for an exit. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. I get it from that perspective. 

Yeah, that's what I said, I get it from that perspective.

When he was talking about like the whip designs and all that from working with the collaboration with one of the artists that he handpicked to kind of do that whip, I think that's up in the air. I've never been on that side of one having to ask anyone to.  Like, can we do this work with this person, um, or even in a creative director role?

 I would challenge him is to still actually do the collaboration, but with Denim Tears. I'm interested to see how that would have came out as well. And if he felt like it would have the impact that he was looking for. In the first place, to be honest, but, uh, denim tears is definitely there.

They just open up there or they're opening up a store. I've seen, uh, you know, pictures of that. I think it's probably going to be like, you know, lower east side or something like that. But, uh, you know, they've been doing that thing with the collabs. They also, you know, got the new error hats. Um, yeah, really, really consistent.

Even with their collabs with Levi's has been dope. Yeah. Um, yeah, denim tears is definitely here. I wouldn't, I wouldn't, uh, take them off this list. Um, so yeah, shout out, shout out to them.  But I think, I think we're good there.

I mean, is there anyone that you think we left out? And this is just like a part one Of a overview of  2023, but, uh,  I can't 

think of anybody 

right now. There's a lot of brain, 

a lot of brands, but to be on the 

top. We'll leave you guys to, to, you know, add that in the comments and give the feedback.

We haven't really even talked on any sneakers. We haven't talked about any news. Really. This, this can be like an hour and a half, two hour long combo. So, uh, yeah, this is just for part one. Hope you guys had a good Thanksgiving. Thank you guys for tuning in. Uh, like subscribe, share, comment.

We appreciate you guys. And uh, yeah, leave some comments. Tell us what you guys want us to talk about. Peace out. Peace.

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